Fresh Dates - Like On The Stem -- At Nazar

Fresh dates at Nazar Market

Grab for the season by trying fresh dates on Nazar Market in Columbia.

Fresh dates like dates just harvested and sold still on the stem. They're firm and golden, nothing like the soft brown dates that I normally buy. But they're ripe, and you eat the skin and all.

It's a fresh flavor, the full flavor of the date but less sugary. The skin reminds me of an Asian pear. You crunch through flesh like an apple -- slightly astringent at the skin, but then the flavor that is surprisingly rich with honey.

Based on exhaustive minutes of on-line research, these appear to be Mariani dates picked at the "khalal" stage. The LA Times describes them as the "flavor of coconut, sugarcane and cinnamon." I wish that I has thought of that because it's a nice description, much better than "full flavor of the date."

Nazar is a market with a halal butcher in the shops at Snowden River Parkway and Oakland Park Boulevard. You enter from Oakland Park, and Nazar faces across the parking lot at Bon Fresco Sandwich Bakery. Nazar sells lots of Turkish goods -- including candies, juices, sodas, grains, spices and the perfect ground lamb. Ground lamb was one of the stars of 2010's Grilling Week.

How Big Do Those Cups Need To Be?

The cup at Mangoberry is human-sized

Great moment at Tutti Frutti in Fulton: A woman chastises her three boys for ignoring her instruction to get the smallest cups, only to round the corner and realize that the giant bowls in their hands are the smallest available.

How big do yogurt cups need to be?

The by-the-ounce yogurt trend has been great fun for me. I like the sour and fruity yogurts, and I love topping off with mochi and the little round balls that burst when you bite them. (Occasionally, I need to ignore the fact that those balls look like a 1970s fishing bait that was some a troublingly-similar type of fish egg that you slid on the hook.)

But the bowls are ridiculous. They run from huge to huger to hugest. I have eaten a perfectly fine dessert that barely covered the bottom on a bowl.

Mangoberry in Clarksville has a plastic cup. It's still a big cup, but you can layer nicely. Yogurt - toppings - yogurt - toppings - yogurt. That's a cool innovation -- although the Rita's folks would say that they have been layering Italian ice and custard forever.

Last Chance For Original Soft Stuff

Take your last chance to eat soft serve on the side of Rte 40.

The Soft Stuff stand has been an Ellicott City institution, and it will close some time in October. Go now. They're already starting the construction that will replace a motel and diner with a modern commercial development. But you can get your cones and enjoy one final night eating ice cream next to your car.

We went Saturday night after a Korean dinner. People were rolling up at a steady pace. The woman working there said they'll stay open until October. They didn't know an exact date yet.

Soft serve is soft serve. I'm not sending you for a gourmet sweet. I'm sending you because the ice cream parlor that will replace Soft Stuff will be like so many other ice cream parlors around. The current stand is a window back in time, and the memory will be as delicious as the dessert.
Soft Stuff
10021 Baltimore Pike
Ellicott City, MD
410-465-2090

NEAR: Soft Serve is attached to the last remnant of the Forest Motel. It is on the south side of Rte 40 west of Rte 29 across from the Enchanted

Beef Soup At Han Sung Restaurant

Yuk gae jung with age tofu and chapchae in the back

The cold is coming, and you should start looking for warm dinners to get you through.

Yuk gae jang is a Korean beef soup perfect for your winter, and Han Sung Restaurant in Ellicott City will ladle it out for you.

Han Sung is a small casual restaurant just south of Rte 40. Many of the people coming through were eating sushi or tempura. But there is a small variety of homestyle Korean food, and I'm looking to eat beyond the barbecue and the Korean-Chinese noodles that I love.

Yuk gae jang is a bowl thick with shredded flank steak, scallions and noodles in a red-tinged broth. The soup has a spicy zest, but it's not the fiery flavor that you can get in some Korean dishes. It's a filling dish. The beef cooked tender. The noodles soak up the broth. On the side you get a metal container of rice, which you spoon into the bowl and adds a nice heartiness.

Han Sung doesn't have the panache of Shin Chon Garden, which is our repeat joint for Korean. But we're trying new spots, and I directed us to Han Sung -- and to yuk gae jung -- based on a Yelp review by Ji K. They put out a nice table of vegetable panchan, and it seems like the right place for a dinner of soup and sushi.

One note: Ask for the main dish serving of yuk gae jung ($11). It's in English on the takeout menu, but the regular menu lists the main dish soups only in Korean. Next time, we'll try the mandu gook -- dumplings in a beef broth -- or the seafood pancakes. Anyone else suggest dishes at Han Sung?

Han Sung Restaurant
3570 St. Johns Lane
Ellicott City, MD 21043
410-750-3836

NEAR: Han Sung is in a small commercial development on St. Johns Lane south of Rte 29. You drive past a cemetery on the right, and then turn right into a brick commercial building just before the next intersection with Frederick Road. Han Sung is around the corner and faces Frederick Road.

Takeout From Facci - Available Now (Sort Of)

I love a woman who quotes the Godfather.

As Nora Ephron so sagely noted, the Godfather is the sum of all wisdom. The Godfather is the answer to any question. At least for many boys.

Facci Ristorante famously hasn't offered takeout. They'll oblige once their current expansion is done. But Mrs. HowChow got takeout from Facci last month by confiding to our waiter that she was too stuffed to eat dessert at the table, but would love a cannoli to take home.

Facci makes the cream in house, and they're absolutely delicious -- although they're being caught by Facci's expanding dessert menu that included a real success of lemon gelato wrapped around a limoncello cream.

We had a delicious dinner at Facci with family. The waiter discretely delivered Mrs. HowChow's package, and she ordered us out the door and towards the fork that she knew she would find in our kitchen.

"Leave the gun," she said. "Take the cannoli."

Tea-Smoked Duck At Red Pearl In Columbia

The beauty of friends is that you can split a meal that might be too much for you alone.

Red Pearl in Columbia has become one of our favorite places, and I was jazzed by Todd Kliman's review in the Washingtonian because he highlighted new dishes, including a tea-smoked duck that he described as "rich and juicy as the best spare ribs."

Problem: Mrs. HowChow doesn't eat duck.

Solution: Dinner with the '34 Act Gourmet and his wife. As a foursome, we ordered a table of food headlined by that tea-smoked duck. I have to admit that I didn't realize that neither woman liked duck until I tried to offer pieces around.

It became a two-man job. The bone-in meat is rich and flavorful on its own, but set against a layer of fat and a crispy skin. You can see Red Pearl's ambition in the way that they turned out such an unusual dish. The meat was firm but still moist. Slightly-sweet steamed buns peeled open so that we tucked meat inside and ate them as sandwiches. I couldn't eat a plate on my own, but we dented the pile as a team -- and it made perfectly fine leftovers as well.

Check out Kliman's review, which mentions a lobster dish and a hot pot that sound spectacular. Red Pearl serves up all the classics of an American Chinese restaurant, but it pushes into dishes that are more unusual, more nuanced, more exciting. With my favorite Grace Garden, these are Chinese kitchens competing with the best food around.

Red Pearl's dim sum has become our go-to spot to take houseguests for brunch. It's great food -- and easy to please everyone because you can order an array of items. Roast duck appears on the carts, but it was not the same tea-smoked dish. Okay, but I prefer the roast pork and the dumplings.

Extend Your Cinco De Mayo In Elkridge

You can enjoy a day of Mexican food and music tomorrow at El Nayar in Elkridge.

The Mexican restaurant just off U.S. 1 plans a day of games for outdoor grilling, kids, music and "Comida Rifa."

(You might spend a while trying to translate "Comida Rifa" from El Nayar's sign. Rich food? Party food? Neither your college Spanish nor Google would understand. Only then would you would realize that it was two words -- food and raffles. Whoops!)

I actually stopped at El Nayar last weekend. We ordered tamales and a plate of tacos that we split with my parents. I'm not a huge side dish fan at most Mexican restaurants. Just order tacos because the beans and rice are often pedestrian. El Nayar's tacos are delicious, especially served with chips and the homemade salsa.

The party is Saturday, May 7, but the sign didn't actually say when. I think all day, but call to confirm. Thanks to Thierry for the nudge. I had the photo last weekend, but I had forgotten until he emailed.

Tutti Frutti Has Opened In Columbia, And BGR The Burger Joint Looks Close To Opening Next Door

Tutti Frutti has opened its Columbia location -- bringing sour frozen yogurt and do-it-yourself toppings to the Dobbin Road area.

Tutti Frutti started out with a shop on Rte 40 in Ellicott City. The second location is in the Columbia Crossing shopping center near Dick's and Target. The new store shares the "son of Pink Berry" modern decor that dominates the yogurt trend, and it has been one of my favorite spots for a summer treat.

Next door, construction continues on BGR The Burger Joint, a small chain of burger, well, of burger joints that announced its Howard County spot in January. (For a fan's predictions, check out Jason's guest post.) On Sunday, it looked like they had already delivered kitchen equipment, so I hope that it will open in the next few weeks.

Shrimp From Today's Catch In Columbia

Shrimp should make for easy cooking, but it's hard to find seafood worth shelling out the money and popping in my mouth.

In theory, shrimp should be a perfect food. Quick to cook. Healthy to eat. Easy to pair with all kinds of cuisines.

In reality, I have been burned by too many shrimp deals where my meal tastes like cardboard. I tried supermarkets. I tried frozen from Trader Joe's. I already carry images of fetid shrimp farms, so I don't want to risk pesticides and a tasteless dinner.

The recent success was Today's Catch in Columbia. The small fish store in Wilde Lake village center has been my place for scallops -- or for the trimmings that they often sell for $10/pound and that can make great fish stews. But I risked shrimp two weekends ago, and it paid off.

 

Today's Catch shrimp were firm and sweet. I basically simmered a large can of Muir Glen tomatoes with sliced garlic and shallots. Then I stirred the peeled shrimp in the pan when the timer rang on my pot of linguine. The pasta gets drained and swirled into the sauce as the shrimp turns pink and opaque. Served up with slices of Jim Lahey's bread.

That's dinner. That's easy.

Where else do you get great seafood? Frank's Seafood in Jessup is my spot for crabs, oysters, fish and more. They are way bigger than Today's Catch, although both offer people who can answer questions and recommend how to cook their wares. Laurel Meat Market often has crab meat, shrimp that they say is wild, and scallops that they say haven't been injected. I like these places, but I remain really suspicious of seafood -- mostly because I don't know how to check anyone's claims.

Kyle Goes Old School With Stuffed Ham -- And Goes To Trueth's For That Brined Meat

Kyle's family is invited every year to a large family Easter dinner. It's a Polish/German Catholic family that they're related to only through marriage. Each family is asked to bring a dish, and this year, Kyle got the ham.

Big pieces of meat aren't my wheelhouse. But Kyle went exotic. He grew up in southern Prince George's County where he had learned about Southern Maryland stuffed ham. So he went unique and local. (And he used a bungee cord.)

The ham is pretty famous in St Mary's and surrounding counties especially at church suppers. I even made the stuffed ham once back in the 90s. I had to take advantage of a large gathering to make it again.

The main ingredient is a corned ham, whole bone-in uncooked brine cured leg of pork that has not been smoked or dried. This isn't a common find. I immediately thought of Trueth & Sons butchers in Oella. If anyone had it, they would. I called a week before Easter, and they said they had to order it. If they could get it, it would arrive on Wednesday. I asked about weight and price and was told they would call on Wednesday.

Meanwhile I started to get cold feet because southern MD ham wasn't exactly central European or run of the mill American fare. Wednesday came and went with no call. So I assumed that the corned ham was a no-go, and I was somewhat relieved. So off to the local grocery store to buy a spiral sliced ham that I would just glaze. Being somewhat of a purist, I found a Smithfield hardwood smoked 11-pound ham with natural juices. Yes, it was commercial ham from a chain grocery store, but it was made right. As long as I didn't dry it out and used an interesting glaze, it would be good and normal.

Saturday afternoon, I got a call from Trueth's. The guy wants to know when I'm going to pick up my corned ham. I told him that they were suppose to call me because they didn't even know if they could get it. He said he wasn't told, and I still had a 21 pound corned ham at 1.99/lb. Feeling a bit betrayed but not wanting to stick my local butcher with an obscure piece of meat, I told him I would come get it. The corned ham was processed by Manger's Packing Company in Baltimore. Apparently, this is one of their specialty products, and they supply many of the locations in southern MD that serve this dish. They also make a half-smoke that's legendary.

The stuffing is composed of kale, cabbage, and onions with lots of spice. The spices are heavy on mustard seed, celery seed and red pepper. I already had cabbage but I needed kale and lots of it. So I thought of Korean markets. If they didn't have kale, I could substitute some other greens. Lotte was on the way. I don't trust Lotte's packaged goods or meats, but the veggies are fine. So I bought six bundles of kale, nearly wiping them out. I needed a lot of red pepper and had a lot of Korean coarse ground red pepper (smallest package weighs a pound). So that's what I used.

I couldn't remember where I got my recipe the first time, but now I had the web. So off googling I went. They're not a lot of choices. The most prevalent recipe used a deboned ham and that's not what I remembered or wanted. Another one used a half a ham. Other recipes used different spice mixes or amounts of spices. I just sort of doubled and melded the recipes to come up with mine.

The actual recipe is fairly straight forward and even looks fairly simple except your dealing with 20 pounds of meat stuffed with almost 9 pounds of veggies. This monster has to be slit, stuffed, wrapped in cheesecloth, tied, put into a pot, covered, boiled for 5 hours and then removed from the pot. The preparation of the veggies for the stuffing was long even though I used a food processor for the real chopping. Invariably, I flooded parts of my kitchen. Even covering the pot was difficult since the bone kept the lid from fitting soundly. I used a bungee cord to secure the lid and push that ham in. I felt the rack on the bottom was really important. The ham shouldn't come into direct contact with the heat source for 5 hours. Finally I had to cool the ham, remove the cheese cloth and slice part of it. I used an electric knife to slice it off the bones with nice pockets of stuffing in each slice.

Was it worth it? Yes, the ham was beautiful and made a very impressive presentation. It tasted pretty good too. The taste was different than a normal ham and not everyone appreciated it. According to the one guy who grew up with this stuff, it was very authentic looking and tasting. I ended up serving the spiral ham too with a bourbon, coke and mustard glaze. The spiral ham was completely devoured. The stuffed corned ham was less than half devoured. For the remaining ham, I removed the bones and used them for a ham stock. I sliced some of the meat for leftovers and froze two big chunks for later. I claim success.

Southern Maryland Stuffed Ham

1 whole uncooked corned ham (bone-in and about 20 pounds)
2 pounds cabbage
4 pounds kale after removing thick stems (6 bunches from Korean market)
2 pounds onions
1/4 cup coarse ground red pepper (I used Korean)
1/4 cup whole mustard seed
1/4 cup whole celery seed
1 tablespoon ground black pepper
1 tablespoon ground mustard
3 tablespoons salt

Thoroughly rinse the kale. Boil in 4 quarts of salted (about 1 tablespoon) water for about 5 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water. Finely chop the kale by pulsing small batches in the food processor.

Slice cabbage and onions in food processor using slicing blade. Switch to chopping blade and pulse in small batches until finely chopped.

To make stuffing, combine cabbage, kale and onions in large bowl. Sprinkle in remaining ingredients and mix well.

Cut 2-3 inch wide slits as deep as possible into the ham. The slits should be oriented perpendicular to how the ham is to be sliced. The idea is to have narrow areas of greens in several places per slice. Press as much stuffing as possible into the slits. If there's any stuffing left, press around the ham.

Wrap stuffed ham in cheesecloth and use butcher's twine to tie the cheesecloth on. Put ham in very large pot with rack at bottom (to prevent burning on the bottom of the pot), cover with water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for about 5 hours. Let ham cool in the water about 2 hours.

Remove ham leaving on tied cheesecloth and place in large plastic bag. Chill overnight in refrigerator. Remove cheesecloth and slice. Serve cold.ش

Hammond's Candies, Cascal Fermented Soda, And Wondering About Where To Get More Like That

No one roots for Howard County food more than me, but I have to admit that we could use some spots for exciting discoveries.

Usually this happens after Mrs. HowChow returns from Whole Foods.

Hammond's marshmallows and caramels have been favorites since we first found them in Capogiro in Philadelphia. They thrive on wonderful gelato, but they also curate a handful of candies and cookies on the counter.

The marshmallows are softer than the ones we pop from the bag and toast for s'mores. They come wrapped in caramel. They're also in a plastic bag that you cannot open quietly. Seriously. She hears even if she is already asleep on the couch.

The new find is Cascal, a soda that pushes towards the world of adult beverages. The label talks about how they use fermented juice. There is no alcohol, but the flavor comes like a hard cider, maybe slightly lighter.

Right from the fridge, it's like light and fun. A perfect toast with people who don't drink liquor. A refreshing break on a summer patio. More than the other sodas that I've picked up in ethnic groceries, Cascal truly has an adult taste, which is impressive and makes me want to try more.

Where do I get more surprises nearby? None of this is a necessity, but it's the kind of fun that I hope we'll get from the Columbia Wegmans. The local organic markets certainly have some interesting items, but I love new items like stumbling on candied fruit at Estrellita in Elkridge. I want more.

Any suggestions other than Whole Foods? Any little shops in Ellicott City? Anywhere off the beaten path that has something impressive and different?

Okay. One update. Cascal says on the back that it's "crafted by independent brewers for Nexstep Beverages LLC" of Houston. Apparently, you rearrange those letters, and it spells out "Made By The Coca-Cola Company." I'm fine with drinking a Coca-Cola product. I'm suspicious about why they don't want me to know.

Hot Dogs & Fries Pizza At Pazani

Has anyone eaten the "hot dogs and fries" pizza at Pazani Trattori in Elkridge?

It almost seems like an April Fool's joke, but it isn't. I took this picture last year, but I never got a taste. (I didn't actually want one, but I'm clearing photos and still curious.) The sign said it was hot dogs, fries, American cheese, ketchup and mustard.

Pazani's pizza was once one of my favorites, but it hasn't wowed me on the last few trips. I need to update my 2009 "pizza in Howard County" post because I'm just not drawn as much. Any new suggestions for good pizza?

Un Mondo Chorizo At Roots Market

At the groceries that sell healthy food, I'm always looking for the items that will taste delicious.

I got to Roots for the good stuff -- vegetables, Michelle's granola, and bulk grains. So I'm justified to grab chorizo from the display right near the checkout.

Un Mondo chorizo has the taste of spices and fat. It's a pork sausage that we sliced onto a antipasto plate with cheese, marinated vegetables and pickled eggs.

The chorizo was unctuous and tasty, but not oily at all. Slivers of rich flavor that contrasted beautifully with cauliflower brined in vinegar and rice crackers dusted with seaweed. A great example of how you can make a meal of flavor from a handful of meat.

Hot Fudge At Williams Sonoma (And Danish Jam-Filled Pancakes If You'll Buy A Special Pan)

Williams Sonoma is a strange store for a cook to have ignored for so long.

On my own, I have a pretty off-brand kitchen. A pot is a pot is a pot. Maybe I invested in a few items, but mostly I followed Mark Bittman's mantra of no frills supplies and mostly I cooked from scratch. So I really didn't shop for kitchen stuff in the mall.

It took Mrs. HowChow to teach me that the food was delicious. We'd check out Williams Sonoma for samples as we walked around, and I saw how that store -- with its clear directions and its mixes and sauces -- got her excited about cooking more than anything else.

Baking more than cooking. Sweets most often. Mrs. HowChow isn't excited for Williams Sonoma's pot roast spices. She wants new cookie sheets. She also wants hot fudge. Williams Sonoma's hot fudge has no equals around here. No chemicals. It's cream, sugar, butter, cocoa . . . It heats beautifully and makes any ice cream into something special. I cannot find anything that compares, and I have no idea how to make my own.

So we go to Williams Sonoma together.

Another recent find: a pan to make ebelskivers. I have no idea if anyone in Denmark really eats flying-saucer pancakes, but Williams Sonoma sold us on the story, a pan, a cookbook and a can of pancake mix.

Skip the mix. It's flour and baking powder for $10. But the ebelskivers are really fun, and the Nordic Ware pan makes them pretty easy. You make a simple batter, and you cook seven ebelskivers at a time, letting a tablespoon of batter cook and then adding another tablespoon and flipping them over with wooden chopstcks.

You get a pancake shaped in an oval. So far, we have made them filled with jam for breakfast, and these would be huge fun if you're weekend breakfast people. (Father's Day gift? Recipe is easy.) In addition, the cookbook touts savory ebelskivers -- for example smoked salmon mixed in the batter. They'll make great party food one day.

Let's Try Again: Flavors Of India Says It Opens April 14 -- New South Indian Joint In Columbia

Flavors of India has a sign saying that it will open tomorrow, April 14, so we're looking forward to reports about the new southern Indian place in Columbia.

(They also had a sign last week that said they had already opened, so we take everything with a grain of salt.)

Flavors of India comes from the folks who own House of India. I understand this will be cuisine similar to the dosas and other items at Mango Grove, another place that I love.

(Update: Flavors of India opened.)

Pickled Eggs By Mark Bittman -- They're So Easy, And You Can't Get Enough Magenta Eggs

One thing that impressed me about Mark Bittman is that you barely have to shop for even his most-interesting recipes.

Hard boiled eggs? Got them. Cider vinegar? In the pantry. Thin-sliced onion. Check. Grated beets and horseradish? Okay, maybe grab those at the store.

I cooked a dinner party recently where one guest was newly vegan and one gets sick from gluten. (And one just doesn't like the taste of cheese, but that was a footnote.) An antipasto plate seemed like the perfect way to let people take whatever food worked for them, so I flipped through cookbooks looking for items that would be tasty, beautiful and could be cooked ahead.

Enter Bittman's pickled eggs from How To Cook Everything Vegetarian. You basically peel your eggs and put them in a large jar or bowl -- something that can take the heat of boiling water, but preferably has a tight-fitting lid. Then you cook a mixture of vegetables, vinegar, water, salt and sugar until the onions are soft. Pour that over the eggs and refrigerate for two days to a week.

So easy, and you get magenta eggs. Slice them in quarters, and the yellow yolk contrasts with the beet-stained whites. They're a little more firm than regular eggs with a taste from the vinegar and horseradish. Great on the antipasto plate. Great sliced on salads. Delicious enough to just eat in our lunches.

These eggs ended up on a plate with some cut vegetables, eggplant dip, and sliced chorizo from Roots. For the beets, I used the huge storage beets from Super Grand in Laurel or one of the other Korean supermarkets. You can get one beet -- all you need for this recipe -- for less than a bunch of the tiny beets with their greens at a regular store.
Pickled Eggs
from How To Cook Everything Vegetarian by Mark Bittman

6 hard-cooked eggs, peeled
1 1/2 cups cider vinegar
2 medium beets, grated
1/4 c. fresh horseradish, grated
(or 2 Tbl prepared horseradish from a jar)
2 tsp salt
1 Tbl sugar
1 large onion, halves and thinly sliced

1) Put the eggs in a roomy glass or crockery bowl or jar, preferably with a tight-fitting lid. (I actually used a leftover quart plastic container from Whole Foods.)

2) Put the other ingrediens in a non-reactive pot with 1 1/2 c. water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat so the mixture bubbles gently and cook until the onion is soft. About 10 minutes.

3) Carefully pout the hot mixture over the eggs and let sit at room temperature for an hour or so until cool. Cover, then refrigerate at least 24 hours. They'll keep in the fridge for about a week.

After we ate my first batch, I put the mixture back in a pot and boiled it for a few minutes. I added maybe a half cup more vinegar and a handful of grated horseradish. Then I used it again. It seemed okay to me.

First, We Knock Down All The Supermarkets

Last week, I realized that the problem with Howard County's food options is that we have way too many supermarkets.

I spent much of last week in Manhattan. I saw a single supermarket in days of walking around the island, and I ate wonderfully. Some really expensive stuff. But mostly, the food cost the same as around here; it was just better -- a brick oven pizza, a bahn mi sandwich, some French desserts called macaron.

The key to this abundance seems to be that New Yorkers are hungry.

They can't buy their own food. So they flock to these restaurants. We waited an hour to eat ramen on West 52d Street. Somebody roughed out a basement and installed cooking equipment against one wall. Hip youngsters pack the 18 seats to buy soup. They stood around patiently in a rainstorm, way less jostling than the crowds at Facci.

You get a bowl of chicken-based soup, tricked out with noodles, some vegetables, and two slices of pork belly. Delicious! I'm not saying that we'll attract the three Japanese chefs in their urban kerchiefs, but someone could make some money selling ramen -- or bahn mi -- or macarons -- if we could make people hungrier around here.

First, we need to start knocking down the supermarkets. Oh, I see you had the same idea.

 

 

 

 

Some HowChow suggestions: Angelo's Coal Oven Pizza on W. 57th, Totto Ramen on W. 52nd, Macaron Cafe on 7th Avenue (or East 59th), and il Laboratorio del Gelato, which has moved to a new location on the Lower East Side.


I also tried Bon Chon's Korean fried chicken for the first time. It wasn't a fair test. We had spent so much time at Mood looking for modern fabric that I had to order takeout to get back to our hotel. The 10-block walk killed the crisp.

Valet Parking At A Shopping Center Restaurant -- And Other News From South Of The Border

. . . and that means south of Columbia. The restaurant scene off Hopkins Road has become so hot that they need valet parking.

Facci Ristorante has brought a taste of urban living to the suburbs, and it's a welcome sight considering that more than half of the shopping center at Rte 29 and Johns Hopkins Road will be restaurants -- Facci, Kloby's Smokehouse, La Palapa Too, and more. The lot of fills, which is inconvenient but can also be unpleasant with cars racing for spots or trapped as people maneuver, wait, back up, etc.

Both Facci and Kloby's are in mid-expansion. Peering into the windows on Saturday, they both look weeks away from hosting people in their expanded space, at the bourbon bar (Kloby's), or in the private room (Facci). But construction continues. In fact, Kloby's has applied to expend its liquor license to the new space.

The newest addition: Tandoor Grill. The counter-service Indian spot has replaced Moonlight Cafe. They added kabobs and other Indian to a sandwich menu, and they have added dinner hours, which means that I can think of seven Indian restaurants from Rte 175 to Johns Hopkins Road.

I still need to try Tandoor Grill. Mrs. HowChow was really excited by the lassis, which are fruit and yogurt smoothies. We also thought there were interesting dishes that we hadn't seen on other menus. Pretty strong for a place that clearly needs to depend on takeout.

In other news, Kloby's now sells bottles of its barbecue sauces. I love Kloby's smoked meats, but grilling season has officially begun. So this might be my way to make my first real attempts at grilling my own ribs at home.

Let's be clear. These restaurants are at Rte 29 and Johns Hopkins Road. A little south of Columbia. A little north of Scaggsville and Fulton. But clearly not Laurel -- the mailing address that the Applied Physics Lab apparently wanted decades ago. Inspired by my recent trip to NYC, I want to dub this Triangle Below Columbia -- or Tribeco.

Whatcha Got In The Trunk? A Whole Pig?

A lot o' people don't realize what's really going on. They view life as a bunch o' unconnected incidents 'n things. They don't realize that there's this, like, lattice o' coincidence that lays on top o' everything.

Give you an example; show you what I mean: suppose you're thinkin' about a plate o' shrimp. Suddenly someone'll say, like, plate, or shrimp, or plate o' shrimp out of the blue, no explanation. No point in lookin' for one, either. It's all part of a cosmic unconciousness.

-- Miller

No point in looking for that plate of shrimp. But if you start thinking about a whole pig, you're in luck.

I first noticed whole pigs at Laurel Meat Market, which actually needs two days notice to get you one. They just have a sign offering pigs. From 35 to 200 pounds. That's a huge barbecue if you're cooking up a 200-pound pig.

Then I stopped at Kloby's Smokehouse and saw that folks without a pit in their backyard can have the whole pig experience as well. Kloby's has got 'em and will smoke 'em, then offer them up with side dishes, paper plates and delivery. Pigs are "market price." A deluxe pig roast -- which comes with smoked BBQ chicken, beans, cole slaw, rolls and more -- is $16 a person with a 50-person minimum.

I'm sure that I'll see whole pigs everywhere now. No explanation. No point in looking for one.

Bonus points if you know what was in the trunk. You don't want to look in there.

Early Thoughts On Flavors Of India In Columbia

The newest frontier for Indian food in Howard County is an attempt to take on the entire continent.

Flavors of India opened in Columbia earlier this month. It's still a work-in-progress according to the comments on a prior post, but it's serving up good food in Aida Bistro's original spot off Columbia Gateway Drive.

This is still a new restaurant so I expect it to change as folks work out the kinks. But we drove to Columbia Gateway during the first week and certainly enjoyed ourselves.

Bottom line: It's good food. It's a nice, casual atmosphere. I'm not sure that it'll pull me away from Mango Grove, but that's just because Indian is one of the deepest cuisines in Howard County.

We ate off the vegetarian part of the menu. Flavors of India is setting itself apart by serving up an enormous variety -- northern Indian tandoori chicken, southern Indian dosas, Indo-Chinese items like fried rice and chicken or cauliflower manchurian. That's a smart way to stand out among many good Indian spots, but we stayed vegetarian to get a contrast with House of India in Columbia, one of our favorites and owed by the same people.

Papdi chat was an interesting appetizer. Crisps mixed with potato, chickpeas and a spicy sauce. Not that spicy, actually. It was a friendly crowd with a bartender watching over us and a manager showing photos of his family to other tables.

We ordered a dosa. A week later, I don't remember which one. That can't be the strongest recommendation, but I scooped up the dosa, which had the contrast between crispe crepe and warm filing that makes me love these south Indian dishes. Flavors was a little more oily than Mango Grove, a little less spicy. Between our dosa, a curry and a naan, we left satisfied, although not convinced that the bread or the flavors lived up to the best Indian around.

Overall, the comments on earlier posts echo my impression. Folks talk up the spinach pakora, the sambar and chutneys. But there were some complaints about blandness and some observation about "new restaurant" issues like service. (Check out here and here.) As I have said before, HowChow is a hobby. I don't trash people who are trying to serve good food, so please keep the rhetoric to useful and away from hyperbolic.

I'll go back to Flavors of India because the menu goes beyond the standards. Recently, I have been trying to find new dishes beyond my take-out comfort zone of a chicken dish, baigan bartha, and a basic lentils. Flavors has a dish of green chilis simmered in tamaring, peanut and coconut. One of the commentators highlighted the "chttinadu" style dish that I have never heard about before.

For more, check out Rishoo on Yelp, who works across the street and talks up the ala carte menu, but not the buffet.


Flavors of India
7185 Columbia Gateway Drive
Columbia, MD 21046
410-290-1118

NEAR: This is south of Rte 175 just west of I-95. Columbia Gateway is called "Col Gateway" on the Rte 175 signs, and you drop down to the road and then follow a fork sign into a shopping center on the west side of the road. You can't see anything from the main road.

Go To Daedalus To Check Out Cookbooks

If you have a little patience and a taste for cookbooks, make a short trip to Daedalus Books in Columbia.

Last weekend, I wandered the stacks for more than an hour with my brother-in-law, a book lover who is always an inspiration to stop at the bookstore that I drive past every week.

Daedalus sells remainders and other odd-lot books and music. That means you can't guarantee what you'll find, but you might always discover something interesting. Daedalus isn't selling dollar books. It fills a spot where the books are cheaper than retail, but still good enough to worth your time and your money.

Last weekend, they had a pile of the Food Matters Cookbook that I recommend. Priced about the same as Amazon, but you can cook from it tonight if you stop at Daedalus today. Plus, you can check out hundreds of other books, including some that I recognized like One Big Table by Molly O'Neill and Local Breads by Daniel Leader.

My fear with remainder bookstores is that the books ended up here because other people knew not to buy them. But many of the Daedalus cookbokos looked high quality. Local Breads fascinated me, although the starters and precision are just a step too much for me right now.)

I'm tough on cookbooks. I have come to avoid anything associated with a restaurant chef or a television host. Far too many pages larded with celebrity friend stories and recipes that call for ingredients like the best Nantucket Bay scallops. My bias is towards big, encyclopedic books that I can flip through to find a recipe that matches the food in my fridge.

But whatever you want, Daedalus should have something interesting.

Daedalus Books
9645 Gerwig Lane
Columbia, MD 21046
800-395-2665

NEAR: This is off Snowden River Parkway just north of Rte 32. You can see the warehouse from Rte 32. To get here, it is easiest to go south on Berger Road from Snowden, then turn right on Gerwig Lane.

Fish Noodles At Grace Garden

My favorite restaurant dishes are the ones that I know that I could never make myself.

The fish noodles at Grace Garden in Odenton are one of my absolute favorites. Mild fish somehow pureed and then reformed as rough noodles. I love the texture, which is firm and light, and the fish is almost sweet. Mushrooms provide an earthy flavor, and pork slivers give the plate a salty bite.

Grace Garden is one of the best restaurants around because it excels at little things like the mushrooms. Mrs. HowChow couldn't get over how they tasted like mushrooms. These weren't bland, reconstituted filler. They were an equal part of the meal, holding their own against even meal.

All of the cooked vegetables have the nicest crunch. They're not soggy or limp. The sichuan pork belly comes out full of garlic and crispy with an unctuous, warm flavor of oil that I'd never put in my weeknight dinners, but no greasiness.

We hadn't been to Grace Garden in months, and our most-recent dinner shows that it hasn't lost a step. There are only seven tables and minimal decor, but you don't want to miss the XO seafood if you like scallops and squid tossed with a rich sauce. The squid was cooked perfectly -- tender enough to cut with a fork, still holding that perfect spot that is toothsome but not chewy.

Tres Leches Cake At Cuba De Ayer

Mrs. HowChow doesn't like cake, but we both love the tres leches cake at Cuba de Ayer in Burtonsville.

Cuba de Ayer bakes their cakes and then bathes them (I assume) in the traditional mix of milk, condensed milk and evaporated milk. The cake soaks up the liquid and cream.

There is a magic spot where you're moister than bread pudding or French toast, but not so wet that the dessert becomes soggy and collapses. At Cuba de Ayer, nothing falls apart. The tres leches cake just becomes moist and creamy, firm enough to stand but soft enough that a spoon scoops everything up.

Top that with whipped cream, and it's a decadent dessert even though it isn't as sweet as chocolate or many other options. You're not going to do better than a simple meal of Cuban sandwiches and a tres leches cake.

Wine In The Museum, Beer At Woodberry Kitchen, And Great Sage Wins On Public TV

Science Uncorked -- Wine and food for adults at the Maryland Science Center on February 24, 2011. They're concentrating on syrah and punned a name "Que Syrah Shiraz." Tickets are $50, $45 for members.

The Bitch At Woodberry Kitchen -- Beer from the Flying Dog brewery with a special menu from the Woodberry kitchen on March 7, 2011. "Feasting-style." Not sure what that means, but I'd eat anything from Woodberry Kitchen. I love their Raging Bitch India Pale Ale, but you'll get seasonal and limited release beers. Tickets are $95.

Maryland Public Television creates a "Viewer's Choice Dining Guide" to insert in its March program guide. They list more than 800 restaurants, and Great Sage won for "Best Vegetarian." For a copy of the guide, call MPT at 1-800-522-8915.

P90 Noir: Another Food Voice For Howard County

If you're looking for local food blogs, check out the food posts on the new P90 Noir blog. P90 writes generally -- touching on guitars, kids and music. He has posted some recipes for pancakes and red pepper sauce, and he promises grilling as the weather warms.

If you haven't already, you should also click on the food posts from the Swim Write Run blog. Latest installment was a head-to-head battle of enchiladas by guest-poster Jeff -- El Hidalgo vs. Azul 17 vs. El Nayar.

Mom's Organic Market: Your Place To Bring Bittman's Book And Add New Stuff To Your Plate

I'm not a natural follower of the natural markets -- too suspicious of supplements and packaged food to flock to the organic joints.

But I'm being converted to Mom's Organic Market in Jessup -- by the selections and by its location in the midst of good food.

Anyone willing to make an effort for food in Howard County should know the organic markets -- David's Natural in Columbia, Roots in Clarksville, and Mom's (formerly My Organic Market) in Jessup. Yet for years, they weren't places that I visited in depth. So many aisles dedicated to vitamins, expensive packaged brands, and what I'll call "no" foods -- no gluten, no sugar, no meat . . .

I want "yes" food. Delicious food. Happy food, and I was pushed to open my eyes at Mom's by Mark Bittman and Frank's Seafood.

Bittman and friends got me back on a kick of whole grains and beans. The organic markets offer bulk aisles of brown rice, amaranth, bulgar, quinoa and more. I experimented by taking a few cups at a time and cooking my way through books like Super Natural Cooking and Whole Grains Everyday. They're the entry drug for healthy cooking.

Then Frank's got me to really look around.

Frank's sells great seafood a few blocks east of Mom's, and my recent seafood kick -- oysters! -- brought me to Mom's on successive Saturdays for the vegetables to accompany my fish. I started to walk the aisles. There's more fun than I had thought -- more food being sold because it's delicious and useful (and not just because they added soy or spelt).

• Bulk grains and beans are still the entry drug. You can buy beans at any ethnic grocery, but bulk lets you sample a bunch and see what you like. Plus they pay for themselves if you replace a single meat dinner with a vegetarian stew. Buy or borrow Bittman's Food Matters Cookbook to get a dozen accessible ideas. Or just make exotic oatmeal.
• Fresh vegetables. They're pricier than a supermarket or an Asian grocery, but they're really good. A few visits made me realize that even basics like potatoes, lettuce and beets were just fresher than my Harris Teeter. Look for cool surprises too -- like watermelon radishes that have fushia centers when you slice them.
• Muir Glen tomatoes. Buy in bulk when they go on sale. These are my #1 pantry items, up there with tuna fish and black beans. They taste like summer, and they're the key to quick meals -- cooked down briefly for pasta sauce, added to broth to make soup, just sauteed with some spices and topped with a piece of fish that cooks on top.
• Oils. Sesame oil does wonders for Asian dipping sauces. Any small bottles of flavored olive oil can zip up salad dressings. Mom's offers a variety that is worth the price when you think that you're often tasting them right out of the bottle.
• Bread and cheeses. When Mom's expanded, they added a cheese case next to the produce. It's small, but you can pick up a flavor that you just can't get in a supermarket. A strong Stilton, a cool goat cheese. One cheese and a baguette can make dinner.
• Exotics that you might expect to find at an Asian grocery. Check out the row of dried seaweed, and they're packaged for Americans with English names for everything. Get Kimiko Barber's The Japanese Kitchen for an easy introduction.
• And there are still the packaged brands of pricey, but delicious items. Mrs. HowChow loves both the local Michelle's granola and the national Fage Greek yogurt. Other people may be able to recommend crackers or cookies because they're not my normal buys.

Mom's -- along with David's and Roots -- are priceless resources if you want to page through the Food Matters cookbook. Super-Lemony Kidney Beans were a revelation, and you can experiment with recipes that use brown rice, millet, or bulgar wheat. You "cook" bulgar in minutes by just letting it soak in hot water. Don't pass it up.

The key to Mom's is that you can plan a run for delicious food. Once you're in Jessup, pair a second stop and almost feel like you're speciality shopping in a city. You have choices in every direction -- two blocks east to Frank's for fish or seafood, north almost at Rte 100 to Caezar International for Middle Eastern groceries, west at Dobbin/Snowden River to Lily's Mexican Market or Nazar Market, or south at Main Street to the Laurel Meat Market.

(And, of course, you can always justify a snack if you're working on the grocery shopping. R&R Taqueria is in the Shell station caddy-corner to Mom's. Or grab an empanada at El Patio Market a block south.)

The one downside of Mom's is that I don't see much meat that I want to buy. I keep meaning to try the smoked salmon or a salami, but I'm far more likely to experiment with a vegetable that I can touch or with a product that's cheaper than organic beef.

As I said, I'm still coming around to the organic markets so I'd love to hear other recommendations. I see some juices, sauces, etc. that look good, but are a touch too expensive to try blind. I also see some brands -- like chicken stock -- that I can get at my normal store. What else do you like there? Frankly, there are entire posts of food that I skip because I am not cooking for a gluten-free or vegan diet. If you have a guest post in you, please let me know.

For more about stuff to check at Mom's, check out all the posts about Mom's. The bonus at Mom's is that they'll also give you their trash. If you compost -- especially in the fall when you have tons of leaves -- then ask the produce folks for their old vegetables. Both Mom's and Roots will give you boxes of stuff to mix into your pile.

Mom's Organic Market
7351 Assateague Drive, Ste 190 (Rte 175)
Jessup, MD 20794
410-799-2175

NEAR: Mom's is on Rte 175 just east of U.S. 1. It's a large shopping center with a Starbucks facing the main road and Pollo Fuego in the back. Caddy-corner from that center is the Shell with R&R Taqueria. To drive to Frank's, go out the back exit and turn left on Oceano Drive. That deadends in the wholesale fish market.

A Meat Manifesto (Care of HoCoVittles) And Questions About Wagon Wheel Ranch

If you're the type of person who wants to eat local, then you have to love Twitter and HocoVittles -- who joined a recent Twitter conversation on the subject with a link to a 44-page pamphlet about Maryland meat producers.

The University of Maryland publishes the listing, which provides an animal-by-animal breakdown of farms. You get a few words about their methods and then contact information. The local joints include lamb, beef, pork, and more at Smallsville in Clarksville, Clark's Never Sell The Land Farm in Ellicott City and Woodcamp Farm and Wagon Wheel Ranch in Mt. Airy.

Does anyone know the Wagon Wheel Ranch? It is listed as selling all kinds of meat. The Web site suggests that you place an order in the spring, then wait until they raise and butcher the animal. Anyone done this?

(Update: Check out the comments, including a link to Eat Wild that includes more information.)

Crisis Question: Where Is The Best Takeout 2012? My Week-Long List Without Pizza Or Chinese

Where do you get the best takeout in Howard County? It is a crisis question for Lyss who posted that she is renovating her kitchen and can't cook at all. Below is a week of suggestions, not religiously the best but certainly a delicious week:

• Indian at House of India or Mango Grove both in Columbia -- mango lassi, naan, baighan bartha and either a chicken curry (at HoI) or dal makhani (at MG). You could easily add a dish or two and eat a second day. If you have a toaster or oven, consider frozen naan from one of the Indian markets.

• Sandwiches from Bon Fresco Sandwich Bakery in Columbia. I love the Capri or the hot corned beef. I have also asked them to personalize the turkey by garnishing it with roasted vegetables and tapanade.
• Pulled pork or ribs from Kloby's Smokehouse on Johns Hopkins Road. I also love Kloby's smoked wings. If you're thinking wings, check out the post where dozens of commentators debated the best wings in Howard County.
• Sushi from Sushi Sono in Columbia. That's my top-notch place these days. For a simpler meal, I like Hanamura in Columbia and hear good things about the new Ichiban in Columbia and Fuji in Ellicott City.
• A mix of appetizers and kabobs from Maiwand Kabob in Columbia. Call ahead because they need time to make your food. Try the mantwo. And if you're farther south, try Mimi's Kabob in Clarksville for a similar menu plus pizza.
• Pho or lemongrass chicken noodles from An Loi in Columbia. You get a container of stock, a container of meat and noodles, and a bag of Thai basil, fresh sprouts and other vegetables. If you have leftovers, mix them together before you put them in the fridge. The noodles stay better if they're submerged in stock.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That's a whole list without pizza or Chinese food. I have liked takeout from Red Pearl in Columbia -- especially the authentic versions of kung pao chicken (E4), diced chicken stirfry with cumin (E5) and ma-po steamed tofu (E12). And I know other people swear by their local Chinese or pizza joints.

Where do you get takeout? You can see that I'm biased south. Rte 40 is far enough that, if we drive, we eat there. There must be good ideas up there.

(Update: People are leaving other ideas on Twitter like Chopstixx in Elkridge. I also think Lyss should check out the momos at Gateway, the Nepalese pizzeria on Rte 108 on the Elkridge/Columbia line. Add your suggestions below. I'd love pizza or Chinese suggestions. I happened to finish my list without them, but I didn't mean to make them off-limits!)

Penzeys In Rockville: Why 355 Is The Spice Road

Penzeys spices. I lost all my photos to a
cracked phone. Luckily, I had Kyle's
photo from his guest post about "freekah."

Five hundred years ago, people caravaned across Asia for less spice than Penzeys offers in a strip mall in Rockville. All you need to do is cut west on Rte 28.

I went to Penzey's with low expectations. People raved about it, but I think I imagined some snobby joint with snobby prices. Actually, I went to Penzeys by accident. We just saw the storefront on Rockville Pike, and I thought, "It's on Rockville Pike? This must be different than I expected."

It is different than any store that I have ever shopped.

Penzy's fills a room with spices. Some mixes. Tons of individual spices. You can smell and sample everything, so the room billows with scents and flavors that should excite anyone who likes to cook good food.

Frankly, the selection overwhelmed me. You see powder spices, whole spices, entire dried peppers, and extracts like vanilla, lemon or orange. I couldn't decide what to buy -- whether to get my everyday stuff like cumin and pepper or get exotics like kala jeera and espazote. So I bought too much. Curry powder, rosemary, cardamon, two kinds of cinnamon . . . .
The "two kinds" aspect of Penzeys amazes me. Sweet paprika or smoked? Mild, soft Ceylon cinnamon or strong, assertive Vietnamese? Which of the half-dozen peppers do you want? They all smell different. They all smell delicious. That's magic to a guy who grew up thinking that the "choice" in spices was between McCormick's or the Safeway house brand.

At a minimum, Penzeys will provide you with spectacular flavors. If you're really into this stuff, Penzey's could change the way you cook. For example, I never use dried rosemary, basil or oregano. I just skip recipes because I have 40 years of experience that says those dried herbs taste like cardboard.

But Penzey's rosemary smells like summertime. It smells like an August dinner when I have stripped rosemary leaves from my deck. With just two bottles, I started to make pasta sauces with basil and rosemary. Now I'm thinking about the smoky paprika that I left behind. I substitute for that stuff normally, but the sweet version has real flavor -- not just red color on top of deviled eggs. I'm getting the smoked stuff on my next visit.

Let's talk about your visit. Go with a plan. The spices really aren't that expensive. Buy small bottles for $2-3 because they're volatile. Try a bunch because you can go back again. My advice is that you go looking for a few spices to fit each of these ideas:

• Buy your regulars because Penzey's will immediately improve your day-to-day meals. I love cumin. I use tons. I regret that I skipped cumin and pepper to make room for new scents. If you're a baker, get cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla extract. If you cook with oregano, buy some oregano. Better flavor will improve your regular dishes, so test Penzey's to see if you think it's worthwhile.
• Sniff a few common spices that you haven't bought in a while. As I said, most "traditional" spices like oregano and basil have disappointed me so often that I cleaned them out of my spice drawer. But Penzey's smell like you're rubbing your hands through an herb garden. See what we have been missing, especially because it will be a few months before your herb garden comes to life.
• Get a mix or two if that's your style. They have nine different curry powders that you could just sprinkle over baked chicken or you could mix into salad dressing. In the same way, they have a dozen other pre-mixed blends -- including several aimed at grilling for the summer ahead. Spice mixes add flavor in a flash, so grab a Penzey's version if you use supermarket versions already.
• Buy something for a project. Get some cookbook that you have wanted to try. (Two suggestions: Mangos and Curry Leaves or Mexican Everyday.) Flip through and pick a few recipes where you would need something new -- like cardamon, black mustard seeds, or tumeric for Indian food or dried chipotle peppers for Mexican. You'll come home ready to try something, which is better than me coming home with kala jeera and no idea what to do with it.

Again, start with stuff that you know that you'll use. I bought a few spices because they seemed exotic, but after two months, I still haven't dug out the recipe to try them. And buy small. I went nuts on the rosemary and bought an enormous container. Get small ones because flavors fade and because you'll

Penzey's is a perfect way to celebrate the new Intercounty Connector. Once that is done, you should be able to zip from Rte 29 into Rockville. If you're going to Penzey's, check out the food along Rockville Pike. The bahn mi at Ba Le wasn't spectacular in December, but they're a great treat and better than the "no bahn mi" that we have in Howard County these days.

Penzeys Spice Co.
1048 Rockville Pike
Rockville, MD
301-738-8707

NEAR: This is on Rockville Pike south of the intersection with Rte 28. There are several way to cut west across the counties. One way is to take Rte 29 to Rte 198 West in Burtonsville. Rte 198 changes name to Rte 28, but it basically runs straight across Montgomery County until it hits Rockville Pike. You turn left, then U-Turn at the light at Talbott Street so that you can reach Penzeys, which is on the other side of the road.